During a recent trip to Italy, I made some observations that helped me to fill in the blanks on the “food rules” observed by my family during my childhood. Every trip I have taken to Italy seems to have shed light on my upbringing in one way or another.  My Mom was one of seven children born to Italian immigrants. Growing up in Brooklyn, New York during the 1960s was a head-on collision of both American and Italian cultures. Grandma brought these rules over from the old country, and, they were strictly followed “just because” or sometimes the result of religious observance.

 When I was about eight years old, I went over to play at a friend’s home. The family was blonde, Norwegian and Lutheran.  My family was dark-haired, Catholic, and Italian. Dressed in full Boy Scout regalia, my friend’s brother was roasting a hot dog on a stick over an open fire in their backyard. I immediately ran home to ask for a hot dog, so I too could roast it on the open spit. My mother exclaimed “It is Good Friday, absolutely no meat!! I was devastated. She couldn’t believe that even the Lutherans would do such a thing! All I knew was that my Lutheran friends had way fewer rules than we Catholics did! Every time I think of that incident, my mouth still waters.

Not to say that we didn’t have family barbeques on occasion. My grandmother Mary hosted them at her house. We grilled on the big brick structure my grandfather had built himself. Uncle Nick was in charge, and Nan passed the condiments down to the yard from the second-floor window in a bucket attached with rope shouting “Pony Express.”  A barbeque at my parents home took on a whole new meaning! The menu consisted of lasagna, eggplant parmigiana and sausage and peppers cooked inside the home and eaten outside on the cement patio. It was weird. My mother thought charcoal made a mess.

There was to be no cheese on pasta dishes that had seafood. This rule was strict. If you did happen to reach for the cheese container, this action was to be met by an intense stare and a reprimand that was “no cheese on fish, it doesn’t go!” I still hear this in my head whenever I try to put cheese on my linguini and clam sauce!

While visiting relatives this summer in Puglia, we ate much seafood pasta. There was no cheese offered, no cheese requested. I sat silent and dined accordingly! For years I blamed my mother. Doesn’t everyone?  I came to understand later that these were rules followed for generations and that no one questioned them. When I often asked my mother why these rules, her answer was “that is the way my mother did it.” Any further questioning was met with a stare and no further explanation. It was the Gospel! Thanks be to God.

As I came of age, I grew to love the art of cooking. I observed my Mother, Grandmother, and Aunts in the kitchen. In her later years, my Mother would tell people that I surpassed her in my cooking skills.  It was a long time coming. I would often cook for Mom and Dad and observe their skepticism, as they questioned my “enhancements” to the authentic family recipes.

Today I will share with you a “basic” Pasta e Piselli recipe. This will be your template. I have also included an enhanced version with Arugula and smoked mozzarella.

Note: When preparing pasta water, make sure to salt it generously. Also, try not to overfill the pot with water. The reason I recommend this is so that the reserved pasta water is starchy enough to adhere to recipes that require more liquid. The rule of thumb is 4qts (16 cups) of water to 1 pound of pasta.

Basic Pasta e Piselli:

1 lb ditalini pasta or small shells

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 medium onion minced  (I prefer the sweetness of Vidalia onion)

5 oz of chopped prosciutto

1 pound frozen petite peas

4 cups chicken broth or stock

Salt and pepper to taste

            INSTRUCTIONS

Cook Pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and reserve one cup of the starchy cooking water. Set aside.

Heat the oil in another large pan. Saute minced onion and prosciutto. Stir until the onion becomes caramelized and prosciutto becomes lightly browned. Add frozen peas, broth and salt, and pepper.  When the peas are tender, add the cooked pasta to the broth and toss for a few seconds. The mixture should have a somewhat “soupy” consistency. If too dry, add some reserved pasta water.

Serve with Pecorino Romano cheese.

PASTA PISELLI with ARUGULA and SMOKED MOZZARELLA   

(This is my entertaining version of this classic)

                 One small smoked mozzarella cut into small cubes

                 3 cups of baby Arugula

Instructions are the same as above. After the completion of the basic recipe, last but not least, toss in the arugula and cubed smoked mozzarella. Serve with Pecorino Romano.  Buon Appetito!